We woke up late this morning and meandered through the woods marveling at more giants. We were in Eureka, CA soon after noon. We had lunch at the Cafe Nooner and then strolled through the cute downtown. From there we puttered six miles up the road to Arcata where we went to the cash only Cafe Mokka- a coffee shop/spa. Clare and I walked to the bank to get some cash by a route that took us through the town square. Clare said she could live in a place like Arcata, but then we smelled a hippie and she wasn't so sure.
We spent $10 for half an hour of hot tub time. I could see how it might be relaxing, but it was too warm a day to sit in a wooden hot tub, at least for my tastes. To prove my point, I promptly fell asleep when we got back in the car and set on sights on the Mystery Trees. We arrived after closing time, so the mystery remains. It looked a little cheesy, so I'm not sure we missed much in Klamath, CA. We pressed on to Oregon. We had dinner at our camp site in a park outside Brookings. Bri is anxiously stoking the fire, fueled by her success last night and the ever present hope of s'mores. The tension is palpable, or maybe that's the darkness. We'll turn in soon s'mores or no and make our way north again tomorrow.
8/27: I write tonight from the writing desk in the Hemingway room of the Sylvia Beach Hotel in Newport, Oregon. This seems to be a fantastic place for readers, made better if you're able to enjoy a dinner with those who have a gift of making engaging dinner conversation. I shall return to dinner, but first need to pick up where we left off last night. Bri expended dozens of matches, but eventually prevailed and made fire. We had s'mores and stayed up with the fire well into the starry Oregon night.
We awoke early, but moved slowly. We hiked down to the beach for our morning photoshoot and then drove out to a guidebook recommended vista point. That was also the point that Bri realized she'd forgotten her camera at camp. We turned back and as we pulled up to the campground Clare's phone rang to alert us of the quest we were already on. We collected the camera and headed back to the vista. We'd been promised stone arches, but although the view was lovely and the hike to the water interesting, there was nothing like an arch in view.
We drove on until we reached Coos Bay. There were no traces of Steve Prefontaine, but I hadn't expected any. We ate acceptable Mexican food in Coos Bay just off 101 and then pressed ahead to the Sand Dunes.
Failing to book a dune buggy, we decided to make our third hike of the day West toward the ocean. This one may have been the longest yet. It was no way to enjoy the sand dunes, but ti wasn't a bad way to enjoy the summer sun. We walked a mile out and grumbled a bit. When we finally reached the ocean and tested the water, I decided that such a long walk required a dramatic finish. I stripped down to my BVDs and tentatively dove into the quite cold sea. I felt alive and refreshed. All my cares (both my cares?) were washed away. Clare called it my version of the hot tub experience. We hiked back and arrived in Newport, Oregon a bit after 5:30. We were fortunate to get reservations to dinner. It was a fine dinner, at the Sylvia Beach House Table of Contents Restaurant, but the company at dinner made it truly wonderful. We played two truths and a lie and searched for the thread that tied us all together. We had some wonderful characters at our table and I feel quite inspired to have met them (and quite pleased with the company I keep too).
After dinner, Clare, Bri, and I played the game 10 days in Africa in the third floor library. We now retire to the Hemingway room, while Bri sleeps in the Alice Walker room. This whole place is filled with author-related paraphernalia and wonderful stories. Before dinner I sat on the balcony and read a short story, looking up to see the tide going out. I hate to leave so soon tomorrow. Oregon and this hotel will once again go back on my list of places that I need to spend more time.
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