Thursday, April 03, 2008

"You didn't eat a crepe the size of your head" Paris Journal Day 7
What a day. It's 2:45 and I'm tired, so the details will have to wait.

"Enough is enough" Paris Journal Day 7 continued
We started slowly. I was loitering in the park by the space age carousel, our meeting place for most of the days. Alan and Megan were running behind even their schedules and I was dodging pigeon droppings and the cold. They arrived and we had one of our indecisive moments. Before a plan revealed itself, a man in a blue v-neck sweater and matching blue hat joined our group and excitedly waved his newspaper. He was speaking French quickly and gesturing at the paper. We looked confused, but he must have mistaken that look for interest. After several minutes of blustery French and the single English phrase, "Enough is enough," he posed a question. Finally, Alan said "non Francias." Stunned that we'd let him go on for so long, he then laughed good-naturedly, wished us well and crossed the street to launch into his diatribe to more understanding ears.

We returned to Chez Schmanz for breakfast. I tried some of Alan's smoked salmon and cheure cheese- it wasn't bad. We then rolled on via Lauren's direction to get our shop on. We shopped in a manner that might be expected. It involved Megan and Lauren looking intently and sometimes buying while Alan and I zipped through the stores and then posted up outside to look for bicyclists in skirts. We didn't have any luck, but I did witness one truly graceful scooter parking job. Long hair bounced on shoulders as the helmet popped off, the sun shone a little brighter, while she stowed her gear, hallelalujah played softly in the background, as she expertly ran her lock through the rear wheel. Then she and a friend headed across the street and I stopped staring. We ate lunch near a bus stop, and buses seemed to just miss slicing the crust off our sandwiches. Ah Paris! Lauren had a crepe the size of her head which would later prove difficult to eat. Her attempts to finish it were comical as nutella and bananas were squeezing out in every direction threatening to cause a bigger mess. Alan and I found a shopping groove at Celio*; after a brief fitting room fashion show, only Alan emerged a new man.

After shopping we vaguely intended to eat dinner before the Moulin Rouge, but instead watched YouTube videos until we had to run out the door in the pouring rain and race to the bus that would be our ride to the big red windmill. Megan moved quickly in her heels and we managed to make our cold wet way onto the bus. Sensible people would have stayed off the top of the open double-decker bus, but we are not those people. In the covered front of the open top of the bus we got to re-see many of the sites we'd toured during the week. Our feet slowly froze, but we finally arrived at the Moulin Rouge. The square was filled with people. A giant line poured out of the Vegas-like Moulin Rouge entrance. This was big business, and not quite what I had expected. We waited in line, still cold and wondering if we would have been better off in the nearby bar listening to a cover band. Finally we made it inside. The place was larger than I expected and teeming with people. Due to some confusion, we ended up weaving our way through the seated crowd; I was following the usher in the red coat, everyone else was chasing my royal blue raincoat. It stood out all week. We ended up at the first table on the left side of the stage. What we lost in sight lines to the scenery, we gained in the arm's length reach to the edge of the stage. We could see the hairs and the make-up covered imperfections of the dancers who were in front of us. The show was a delightful mixture of circus, camp, pageantry, and nudity. It felt a lot like a long drawn-out amusement park revue, with boobs and champagne. It was an expensive ordeal, but worth it.
Je sais Paris.

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