Monday, September 22, 2014

Pedal the Plains 2014- "My butt hurt too much to sit and my legs were too tired to stand"

There were the big themes of community, being an athlete, and self-propulsion. Those themes like my memories are just flashes. The pieces don't seem to add up to the whole, but the soreness in my legs and the reluctant smile on my face suggest there was so much more. More than the clanging of my fender, the stench of manure, the cornfields framing the road before opening up to blue sky that didn't end. Cyclists were ahead and behind (mostly ahead) as far as I could see and I was pedaling, pedaling, pedaling for 184 miles.

On Friday, Eagle, Dragon, and I (the Whippoorwill of the trip) met up with Hawk at the starting line of Wiggins. The town of 900 was flooded with cyclists unloading cars, registering and getting ready to pedal the plains. Post-introductory haikus, we got off to a leisurely start about an hour after a portion of the masses. We rolled slowly on soaking up the sun and the education and aid spots. I learned three things at the education stops that day:  1. Farmers (represented here) are opposed to proposition 105 because they would like federal standards for GMO labeling and because the inconsistencies across state lines in labeling can be costly. 2. That smell was sweet beets. 3. The job of Captain Corn-elius is a hot one.

We'd travel 34 miles in about 5.5 hours (less than 3 of ride time). The sun was warm which only contributed to the feeling that all of this was just a warm up.  We'd arrive in Fort Morgan for the first night's festivities. Those festivities included camping on a high school football field and showering in an increasingly stinky locker room. They also included the arrival of Snake with dinner. Eagle cooked up some fine burritos and we chowed down while the camp emptied to head to town. We'd make our way to town later to catch a few tunes care of the Atomic Drifters. The kids seemed to enjoy the show, or at least their light up whirly-birds. I've never seen so many toys flying through the air. It was more captivating than the car show.

We dodged the sprinklers that others had to battle late Friday night and enjoyed some of Eagle's oatmeal. We were out by 8:15 and behind most of the crowd. Saturday was the Century option day and there were some extra nerves to go around. Hawk was off early. Eagle, Snake, and I tried to give chase, but Snake quickly fell back into his own pace. I hung with Eagle for a bit and we were joined by a powerhouse of a man. I couldn't keep on pace with those two and fell into my own rhythm.

At the aid station in Brush! (the exclamation point is official, but has to be tongue-in-cheek, right?), I spotted Eagle and he headed out still trying to chase down Hawk. I enjoyed the Brush! food and drinks and waited a while to see if I'd spot Snake. We were all a little worried about Dragon because his bike and his fitness have been giving him some trouble, but figured the support in the ride was strong and he could ask for help if he needed it. Snake pulled up soon after and we rode off together. He was riding the century and had a plan. He couldn't dilly dally at aid stations if he was going to finish prior to the 6 PM course closure.

From Brush! I decided I should ride with Snake until my turn off. It was nice to ride with him and chat and have someone to root on. Our pace wasn't quite the same. I couldn't drag him up the hills and as a big guy he wasn't afforded the same drafting advantage I got from following him. Still I tried to help where I could and be supportive. The hills were frequent, the wind was blowing, and the hills kept coming more than I think most of us expected. My fender rattled and clanged on a rough section of road. Snake was lucky he wasn't near by then. Saturday was turning into a pretty tough day. I'd pulled away between aid stations, but then it all started to unravel. My water ran out. My stomach dropped out. I wondered where the next aid station would be. I pulled off and got a bite to eat. That helped me go the next 1.5 miles to the aid station. It got better from there, though still tough.

Snake and I regrouped at the aid station, both looking a little worse for the wear after 56 miles. We headed out again and pretty much stuck together. Fewer words were spoken. More time was spent just pedaling. The plains and the hills rolled by. We neared the 72 mile split and said our farewells. Snake asked if I was tempted to join him on the century. I was, but decided that 74 miles and a Sunday ride would still be plenty for me to handle.

I got to camp, spent a couple hours organizing, resting, and battling a headache before Hawk and Eagle arrived with Dragon. They arrived together as the century loop met up with the course. They all finished together in triumph. Snake would battle his way in alone at 5:41 PM. Right on schedule with his plan of attack. Everyone was exhausted but buoyant. Group decisions seemed harder to come by. Perhaps it was Sterling, but I think it was tired bodies and minds. Eventually Hawk and I ended up in town for an ok meal at Chef Charles BBQ wagon and a Sugar Beets Days that didn't strike our fancy. Sleep could not arrive quickly enough.

Sunday, we seemed to be moving toward an earlier departure. Snake was headed home. Dragon was planning to go with him and then changed his mind. He'd made it this far and he was going to go another 66 miles. It was a gutsy decision. In final preparations, Eagle realized that Dragon's rear wheel was dragging (hence the name) on his brakes. Adjustments and other delays ensued. There were about 5 tents and 20 riders left when we made our departure.

Hawk left us as we departed Sterling. We wouldn't see his powerful pedaling again. I was in no place to tag along. My legs had no go. I pedaled along with Dragon and Eagle and they got to experience the joy of my clanging fender and its annoying ongoing clatter. As if the sound wasn't enough, things with the fender really started to fall apart. I made a couple stops to try to fix things, but ended up pulling pieces off and stashing them for later. I got back up to those two which woke me up a little. I stopped at the aid station in Merino where I was charmed. I don't know if it was the one room metal town hall or the 3/4 size mural of a town that got me, but something was cool about the little town where they make/fix/sell amusement rides for fairs. I'm also partial to Merino because a nice tech (the second actually) made another fix on my fender. This one would hold until the end of the ride. The rattle wasn't all gone, but the danger was. The rattle was reduced enough that I could again be around people without embarrassment.

I left Eagle supporting Dragon a little after Merino feeling ok. After stops it was still taking a while to get back up to speed, but climbing the slightest of hills I finally found a bit of a groove. I chased down a guy, but just as I caught him to draft he tucked in with his slower group. He then chased me down a little while later and I let him draft for a bit. That good drafting karma would come in handy later. The miles to go clicked down below 50. The sidewind was sometimes a tailwind. The road was so smooth that my fender was almost silent. None of this could prevent all the riding I'd done from making its presence felt.

My mind was saying go. I was well fueled and had plenty of fluids, but things just weren't clicking along. Then my luck changed. A group of 3 passed me. They were ahead by 100 meters or more, but most have hit a lull or had trouble getting around some traffic, because with a little burst I was able to catch up and tuck in behind them. The lead guy was carrying the load. He led the group for half an hour or more. The second guy was a chatterbox, but it wasn't always clear who he was talking to. The third was a woman with headphones who seemed content to tuck in and ride in the wake. I joined the fun without asking. There wasn't quite enough road to stagger myself in the side wind, but I was getting enough benefit and motivation to stay with them. After quite a while, they pulled away and I thanked them for the lift. Later, they'd roll by again and I'd latch on again at their invitation. I don't know how many miles ticked away behind that group, but it was a huge help.

With 17 miles to go at a Cargill (meat solutions) aid station, I rested and refueled, but I was ready to be done.  I stretched, but didn't linger. I don't remember much from a lot of those miles. My butt hurt too much to sit and my legs were too tired to stand. I remember spying some towers that I hoped were the finish in Wiggins and I remember being passed by a large man. I know it's not a race, but that racing mentality has served me well. I kept the guy in my sights and was quite pleased to pass him before the end.

Now I've come to the finish where I had some pulled pork and waited to cheer Eagle and Dragon across the finish line. I wandered around in pain. I borrowed a cow bell and cheered them in.

All those words, all those miles and what I'm really saying is that it's a special thing to tackle a challenge with others. I might just give it another go next year.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

August 21: Old Faithful and beyond

We woke up early and packed up a wet muddy tent and were off by 7:50. We stopped to admire the Grand Prismatic Springs, Black Sand Basin, and Excelsior Geyer (which actually erupted a bit) before catching Old Faithful under overcast skies. It wasn't ideal viewing for any of it, but there was something almost church-like in viewing Old Faithful with so many (100+?) others.

We then made our way out of Yellowstone, neglecting to stop for a bison with a lake behind him/her. Our only stops were the Haynes Old Photo Shop (awesome, if unfocused exhibit) and the Yellowstone sign for photos. We chose to press on to Cody for a late lunch. It's pretty in northwest Wyoming and Cody look like an Old West (and New West) town. We at at Rocky Mountain MoJoe, walked around town, and motored on. C did the bulk of the afternoon driving and after getting a little lost we arrived at our campground at Boulder Park.

The car seemed tired and the rain arrived on schedule, just as we did. Frustrated and bickering we set up the tent in the rain because I am tired of waiting for rain to stop. The inside got a little wet, but hopefully we can survive the night.

The rain stopped. I made a fire! C cooked spaghetti. The fire had a few fits and starts, but kindling appears to have been our previous downfall. It's going now. It cooked our banana boats and I'm sitting on a rock catching up on my journal. Night is falling, the creek is spraying off rocks and C is reading Tolstoy by the last of the daylight. She read me a passage that aptly compared marriage to boating. It isn't always easy or pretty, but I'm glad she's in my boat.


August 20: Big Horn Pass trail

Without watches, we got up and had our oatmeal on an overcast day. We went 20 feet behind our campsite and set out on the Big Horn Pass trail. I was packing bear spray was and was relieved to have it. The morning remained overcast and we were nearly along on the trail. It wound a mile or so through the woods before we crossed a creek. We elected to shed our boots and hunt for a shallow spot. The crossing was so cold and we were so slow from having to pick our way through the rocks of the creek bed that we decided to ford all future streams with boots on. We had several miles of fairly flat hiking in a rolling meadow. We felt comfortable that we'd see a bear coming. The clouds kept the heat away. Yellowstone was gorgeous from this vantage point. This was the way to enjoy it. We came to realize just how much New Zealand and Yellowstone/Teton have in common. Yellowstone wins on crowds.

We came to another creek and lost the trail. We wandered nervously in a group of trees, followed a false path and passed over a spot that looked like a large animal had recently rested in it. We picked our way around staying close to the creek when C spotted another group finding their way back to the trail. We abandoned our search and headed for where we'd seen the other group. They'd been on the right track and we reconnected with the trail. We soon passed the other group and they claimed GPS said we were 6 miles from the trailhead (5.5-ish from our starting spot). We couldn't confirm it, but didn't believe it. The trail was only 8.4 miles long. We re-entered woods and began to go up. We went about a mile when I discovered the freshest scat I'd seen. We decided that was as good a spot as any to turn around. We aren't sure it was bear, but it seems likely to me based on some of the other large droppings we saw.

We ate lunch with a view of what we think was Quadrant mountain. It was a good spot with a creek down the hill below and blue skies now framing our mountain view. We trekked back in the sunshine. I briefly abandoned landscape photography for butterfly and wildflower photos as we made our way back. Our last creek crossing was a wet one. Our boots haven't recovered a day later (good to know) although they've had very little opportunity to sit in the sun.

We broke our car embargo to return to Mammoth Hot Springs for a 3-buck shower, some elk watching and, of course, some ice cream. We returned to camp in the rain. We tried to wait it out, but eventually settled for Mexican crepes in the car (bananas, chocolate, peanut butter wrapped in a tortilla). I don't think it rained after dark, but the tent stayed wet. The night was warmer though. I didn't even need my stocking cap.

August 19: Glamping

I had a rough time sleeping on the cot in the tee-pee as expected. Horses came around to eat the grass near the tents and I tried to lie still while they ate. It was nerve-wracking. One chose the grass just on the other side of the canvas from my cot. I could hear it well, but the shadow of the horse's head confirmed the crap out of it. I finally slid to the floor of the tee-pee to get some sleep. I got up once to go to the bathroom. I found no horses, but did enjoy a star-filled sky.

I didn't get my morning swim in, but had enjoyed a chilly jump in before the previous evening's bonfire. It was refreshingly coooold! Post-jump the mosquitoes feasted on my flesh. Their hunger meant we didn't last long at the bonfire. Instead we chose to play Clue in our tee-pee. C broke M's winning streak, though I was nipping at her heels.

We were at the West Yellowstone visitor's center by 8. I was first through the door and got some camping advice. Our initial destination was full, but we found a place to stay at Indian Creek. M headed home. We got the tent set up and headed out to take in a few more sites. Mammonth Hot Springs was curious. Wraith FAlls was disappointing, although we did kick off our shoes for a while to cool our feet in the stream and drink our blackberry-flavored drinks. Tower Falls was pretty, the petrified tree didn't seem scary at all, and Yellowstone fatigue has set in. It's too big. There's too much. All this driving is no way to enjoy a park. Tomorrow we'll try to do better.

In fact, we purchased liquid gold bear spray so we can really get out and see some wildlife. I'm scared to have it, but the Big Horn Pass trail seems too obscure not to take it on. We did some see more elk and got some good photos of them grazing and playing in "town" at Mammoth Springs. Now it's dinner time, but our luck has run out and the rains have arrived. Hopefully it won't last.

Wednesday, September 03, 2014

August 17 and 18: GTNP to Yellowstone

Today we had the full Jenny Lake experience. We hiked clockwise around the lake, snapping photos and heading toward the Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. We were never alone, especially as we neared the falls. Others were regularly being shuttled across the lake to join in the fun. The falls was pretty, but not very memorable. Inspiration Point had an all-encompassing view of Jenny Lake and gave the name Jackson Hole considerable context. We stayed at the point for lunch and then hiked the long section around continuing in our clockwise direction. With some help from hikers headed the other way, I saw an eagle's nest among the burnt trees.

We searched for a spot to swim, but couldn't find one. We returned to camp, changed into our swimsuits and set out clockwise again in search of a remembered rock. After another mile, we'd searched enough and settled on a swimming spot that seemed passable. After some coaxing everyone got in. The water was cold, fed by glaciers, but it felt refreshing too. Having swum, hiked, and camped Jenny Lake, we finished the day with bratwurst and less than stellar pie-iron peach cobbler. The biscuits didn't seem to work so well. Still, warm peaches aren't all bad. We closed out the day with Crazy 8's and Egyptian Rat Screw. M bested us in both.

8/18- We woke up early, but weren't able to break camp until 8:30. We left Grand Teton behind and made our way to Yellowstone. Our stops were frequent. We hiked to a natural bridge that lacked self-confidence, but with enthusiasm, I say, "It's like a miniature of the natural bridges in Utah." I've never been to the Utah bridges and my enthusiasm rings false.

The Upper Falls were impressive and Artist's Point was a palette of rock colors with a backdrop of river and falls. As we drove along, the river was often just off the road and it snaked and charmed its way into my heart. I kept hoping I'd see a bear catching a fish, but only managed a deer and some elk. (Speaking of elk, I heard a call as I wrote this entry. I only heard ambulance sirens as I typed it.)

We stopped to see Mud Volcano and other gaseous earth bubblers. M craved egg salad sandwiches, so our lunch by the river surely disappointed. We stopped to view some lounging bison and continued to pick and choose our gaseous bubbling spots. Around 3:30 we left Yellowstone to head to our accommodations in Montana.

We're in a camp called Yellowstone under tarp, no I mean Yellowstone Under Canvas. It's glamping- glamorous camping; but although kind of fun and curious, it also seems like a scam. We're in a tee-pee, 3 cots with sleeping bag and foam. The view from the tee-pee is big sky, gorgeous, but no food is allowed in the camp; they'd like us to go to their restaurant. I think we'll return to town instead.

We had dinner at the slippery otter. The girls got IDed, but the bartender "had seen me there before". Guess my doppleganger is enjoying some sweet scenery.

I have high hopes for the bonfire and a morning swim. This place looks like it might be fun in a big group. It will be fun in a small group. I'm just a cheapskate who prefers the floor. The shower was great, the big tents look fancy with queen beds and stoves. It's good to confirm now and again that I'm a tent guy.

August 15-16: Grand Teton National Park

We left from Fort Collins, hostel de parents, at 8:22 AM. We were a caravan of 2, C and I in Tobias and M in her Honda. The day was mostly driving in Wyoming. At times it was scenic. M took most of the lead and guided us to Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). We stayed in an expensive cabin with a shower. Maybe I prefer camping because I end up sleeping on the floor anyway.

We carpooled to an overlook, Willow Flats, and snapped photos of Mount Moran and debated whether it was the Grand Teton or not. We then headed over to the Jackson lodge and had dinner at the Blue Heron (bar? grill?) which had 40-foot windows and a view of Mount Moran. We all had local beer, I had a brown ale from Idaho, and scarfed down dinner. We crashed early and began our Ben Franklin ways.

8/16- Early to rise, 5 AM, we made our way around Colter Bay in the darkness. M wanted sunrise photos and somehow talked C into getting up early. No one else was out. I think we were a little early and a little frightened that we might stumble across a bear. The beware of bears signs are everywhere and sunrise alone seemed like prime time to startle one.

We started snapping photos at the hint of first light and didn't stop,  except to walk the trail to find a new spot, until the earth had spun well into morning. I got 3 good photos from the batch.

We checked out of the cabin and hustled over to the Jenny Lake campground with the news that it was not yet crazy. The most popular of the the park campgrounds, it is a tent-only, first-come first-serve area in the shadow of the Grand Teton (or perhaps a lesser known mountain which blocks the view of it). We circled the campground like vultures and settled on site 43. We can see the nipple through the trees. We claimed the site, but had to wait a couple hours for the current occupants to vacate. With a fear of site poachers provided by the campground host, we circled the nearby outlooks and began the early series of M jumping and yoga in front of mountain scenery. By about 11:30, we had our tents up on site and were headed to Jackson.

I had a vision of Jackson subs and the first lunch-appropriate restaurant we saw was a sub shop. Taking the vision seriously we scared down subs and made our plan. Our plan needed ice cream. Jackson was a smaller, fancier Gatlinburg. The Asian tourists were out in force. Although the town square had a small park framed by antler arches, the quirkiness was offset by luxury goods- fine art galleries, Svarski crysals, and Moo's ice cream. We could only luxuriate so much and each had a scoop from Moo's. We shopped a bit in other expensive, but less luxurious shops and then headed to the river with Teton Adventures Rafting Company.

We'd go 8 miles in our 14 person boat on the Snake River. M started off nervous, but quickly became a fan. There's something about rafting that makes me want to say yes. The guide Brenton asked for a paddle master- I volunteered. He asked if anyone wanted to ride the bull, up front with feet dangling- I volunteered. Later he asked if anyone wanted to run the boat- again, I volunteered. He used oars to guide the boat and I struggled to master the paddles and use them both, but I started to get it in the end. I missed my shot at some rapids. Next time. We bounced through some great rapids, including Big Kahuna after I'd returned to passenger duties.

We swam, we tried to ride a spinning raft. It was all kinds of fun. I was shivering a bit by the end, but happy. It had been a good day and the Snake River had been the highlight. We arrived back at our car later than expected and chose Merry Piglets, a Mexican restaurant, for sustenance rather than grocery shopping and dinner in the dark. It was tasty, especially the Spicy Jalapeno margarita. We crashed in the tents and woke up to the sound of the road, chipmunks, and that day's camp site vultures.

Tuesday, September 02, 2014

July 2014 in San Diego

A journal entry: 

It is Thursday and vacation is nearly over, but I'm going to try to recount a few highlights. We're at the beach in front of Hotel Del Coranado, but that's not where the adventure starts. We started a little rocky as both C and I failed to factor in rain, Friday traffic, and checking baggage into our airport trip plans. We arrived to a long line at 6 for our 6:45 flight. We sent my stressed parents on ahead and we checked everyone's bags. The gate agent gave us stand by tickets and sent our luggage to Las Vegas. Flight delays meant that we made our original flight, but without our bags. They'd arrive at about 1:30 AM. Fortunately, the house near the sea was also near the airport.

The first day was a family beach day as second cousins, aunts, uncles, cousins, nieces, nephews, wives, husbands, etc. stayed quite a while at Mission Beach testing our sunscreen and letting the girls get adjusted to the ocean. They got a little braver every day. We got to see J and S for the second year in a row. They treated us to lunch at a beachside restaurant. It was great to see them.

Sunday we the beach again. This was La Jolla Beach and we brought out the boogie boards. Inside the house, the ants had attacked, but were mostly held at by spray, chalk, and complaints.

Monday most of the crowd hit sea World. C and I went to the Gaslamp Quarter. It's a night spots and we arrived well into the morning. I was very disappointed in the gas lamps and only mildly interested in our guidebook's walking tours. The most interesting aspect was that the area once well known for brothels now houses a Hooters, a Coyote Ugly, and several other mudflap-worthy establishments.

C and I napped the afternoon away and then she made lasagna for dinner. We are the pasta people. We got to meet all the Sea World souvenirs that night. All the second cousins seem to get on well and it's fun to be together.

Tuesday was Legoland. The others did well for back to back amusements. M dug the roller coaster. P is not so sure. My favorite part of Legoland was MiniLand. I spent a long time searching DC legos for familiar sites. The NYC subway was also pretty great. We closed the park down to Beck's delight. We then hit up In and Out Burger for a late supper. Kevin gave me tips on the secret menu so I had animal fries with my double-double and a shake. They were good, but I felt my arteries closing. P talked all the way home, but everyone else was asleep or practically there.

Wednesday was a quiet day at Ocean Beach, the closest beach to our house. The boogie boarding was really good, but the seaweed was thick. The F's came down from Newport Beach and took us out to the Venetian for dinner. We filled a banquet room and had a good family Italian meal with even better company. There was something special about catching up with distant family. I don't think T hears as well as he once did, but he remains quite jovial. I've always thought N was great and thoroughly enjoyed talking to her when J wasn't spinning his tales. Their son J seemed intimidated by the big crowd. I really enjoyed talking to JF. I can't explain what was so pleasing about the evening, but I didn't want it to end. Maybe that's why we played games until way too late that evening after the others left.

Everyone seemed tired on Thursday, but we returned to the beach and soldiered on. Vacation ended too quickly, but we had a great mini-FOG reunion.